The video above runs through the full ten-minute audit live, on a real client's setup. This article covers the same checklist in text, so you can follow along or use it as a reference without rewatching.
1 · Where to start
Open a browser and go to your router's admin panel. For most home routers, that's 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.0.1. If neither works, check the sticker on the bottom of your router — the default gateway address is usually printed there. Log in with the admin credentials (also on the sticker, unless you've changed them — and if you haven't changed them, that's the first thing we'll fix).
On a Mac, go to System Settings → Wi-Fi → Details → TCP/IP. The "Router" address is your gateway. On Windows, open Command Prompt and run ipconfig — look for "Default Gateway" under your active connection.
2 · The right way to speed test
Most people run a speed test from their phone or laptop over WiFi and compare it to what their ISP promises. That's not the right test. Fast.com (run by Netflix) measures download throughput — the thing that matters for streaming. Speedtest.net measures both upload and download, which matters more if you're on video calls or uploading large files.
Run both. Then plug a laptop directly into the router with an ethernet cable and run them again. If the wired result matches your plan speed but the WiFi result is significantly lower, the problem is your wireless setup. If even the wired result is slow, the problem is your ISP or modem.
3 · Finding unknown devices
In your router admin panel, find the section called "Connected Devices," "DHCP Clients," or "Device List" — every manufacturer labels it differently. You'll see every device currently connected to your network. Go through the list. You're looking for anything you don't recognize.
Common surprises: a neighbor's phone that connected once and never forgot the password, a smart TV from a previous owner still on the network, or — more rarely but it happens — a device that shouldn't be there at all. If you see something unfamiliar, change your WiFi password. All your devices will need to reconnect, which is annoying once and then done.
4 · Security settings most skip
The one setting almost nobody turns on: WPA3. If your router supports it (most routers from 2020 onward do), switch your security mode from WPA2 to WPA3, or at minimum WPA2/WPA3 transition mode. WPA3 uses a much stronger handshake protocol that's resistant to the brute-force attacks that compromise WPA2 passwords.
The one setting to turn off on older routers: WPS (WiFi Protected Setup). WPS was designed to make connecting devices easy via a PIN or button press. It was also broken by security researchers in 2011 and has never been properly fixed. Disable it.
5 · Firmware and updates
In your router admin panel, look for a "Firmware Update" or "Software Update" section. Check when the firmware was last updated. If it's more than a year old, update it now. Router manufacturers push security patches constantly — most routers can auto-update if you enable it, and I recommend doing so.
The video shows the update process on three different router interfaces (ASUS, Netgear, and a UniFi setup) because they're all different enough that written instructions don't quite capture it. If you get stuck, that's the part to watch.